Friday, August 21, 2009

Lifetime Handles


The fiberglass handles on our Corona compound action loppers eventually weaken and break. In the past we had no way to repair them so the cutting jaws were thrown out and the handles were recycled as stakes to mark plantings.

Now we are experimenting with using aluminum pipe to replace the handles. The first step in the modification is to drill out or grind off the end of the rivet which holds the original handles on, then use a long punch to punch it out. The smaller pipe fits over the cutting jaw extension but since the pipe is hollow and cylindrical and the extension is flat, it does not fit tightly. This is resolved by shaping some half round wood molding to fit in the pipe on either side of the extension. Lacking precise forming equipment, the wood will either be slightly large, in which case it can be hammered in, or a little loose, in which case it can be dipped in water, then coated with Gorilla Glue just before insertion. Gorilla glue expands and dries to a dense foam which will fill the gaps and hold it in place. 6mm holes are drilled in the wood after it is inserted and bolts are then used to replace the rivets which formerly held the handles on.

The larger pipe fits over the black end of the handle. The OD of the handle is 1.50 inches and the ID of the pipe is 1.49 inches so some material on the end of the handle has to be ground off. It is a hard rubbery material. I used a drill press with a cylindrical, flat end 6mm diameter silicon carbide bur from McMaster-Carr. Drilling holes in the pipe exactly opposite each other and at exactly the right distance from the end to line up with the holes in the handle was beyond my technology. The bur was used to adjust the pipe holes in the proper direction for the bolt to work. The big pipe seems to be tight but if it later loosens up we will use Gorilla Glue for it also. Red electrical tape is wrapped around the handle to make it more visible and artistic.

The first modified lopper has one big pipe and one small pipe. The smaller pipe is lighter and cheaper but not as strong. If it turns out to be strong enough it will be used for future repairs. If it breaks we will use the larger pipe. Heavy duty fiberglass reinforced plastic pipe was investigated but it was heavier and more expensive than the large aluminum pipe.

The pipes were ordered from OnlineMetals.com, the same place we get the aluminum angle for upgrading the cutters. They have pipes of different diameters, wall thicknesses, and materials and they give the detailed dimensions. If you want a high tech lopper and need to get rid of a lot of money, you could order brass, stainless steel or titanium pipes.


Sunday, August 9, 2009

Working in The Rain

We had a rainy day on Saturday but we cut buckthorn and honeysuckle and herbicided anyway.

One reason people don't herbicide in the rain is that they think the herbicide will get washed off. If you are using herbicide with surfactant, in accordance with the label, and apply it as soon as the cut is made, it will soak in almost immediately and once it has soaked in it cannot wash off. The photo shows stumps that we herbicided on Saturday morning when it was raining. On Saturday afternoon it rained hard. The photo was taken on Sunday morning. You can tell from the dye that the herbicide did not wash off.





The other concern about herbiciding in the rain is that the sponge will get soaked with rain and then you will be applying water instead of herbicide. This can be prevented by keeping a cover on the sponge until you are ready to use it. We use covers made from bottled water containers. If you don't drink bottled water yourself you can get empties from the side of the road, parking lots, or open trash containers.


A possible research project would be to quantify how much rain it would take to reduce herbicide effectiveness. It would be a two year project since it would take until the second year to see how many resprouts there were. The first year would consist of designing the experiment, applying herbicide in various amounts of rain and marking the stumps. In the second year the resprouts would be counted, a statistical analysis done, and conclusions and recommendations determined.


Cut stump treatment is different from foliar spray since the herbicide soaks into the wood very quickly and takes from an hour to up to 24 hours to fully soak into foliage.