Planted Prairie vs. Fallow Field

At Ives Road Fen Preserve we have about 30 acres of planted prairie and 73 acres of former agricultural fields. The prairie had all weeds and other plants that were growing there eliminated with glyphosate before planting an assortment of prairie plant seeds. It has had several burns and extensive hand pulling of weeds. It has few invasives. The old agricultural field I did this comparison with has had most of the volunteer tree seedlings removed but no burns, no plantings other than a few oak seedlings this year, and minimal weeding. It has many alien plants, including spotted knapweed, sweet clover, common mullein, Queen Ann's Lace, toadflax, exotic grasses, and St. John's Wort.

On a sunny afternoon with a temperature of 74˚, I drove in, counted butterflies I could see from the track, then walked in 100 paces, counting additional butterflies I saw as I walked in. I used butterflies as a surrogate for all wildlife because they are easy to see, easy to identify, and present in numbers suitable for counting. Here are the results:

Common Sulphur: Two in the field, one in the prairie.

Cabbage White: Four in the field, two in the prairie.

Small moth: Four in the field, one in the prairie.

Monarch: None in the field, one in the prairie.

Pearl Crescent: Four in the field, none in the prairie.

Orange Sulphur: Two in the field, none in the prairie.

Praying Mantis: None in the field during the count but one seen later, one in the prairie.

Grasshopppers: Hundreds in the field, none in the prairie.

Birds: One sparrow in the field, one in the prairie.

Conclusion: The fallow field supports a greater variety and number of native animals than the planted prairie.

Reasons: The fallow field probably has a greater number of plant species than the planted prairie. The last prairie planting that Tom did had 65 species. There are over 700 plant species on the preserve. Not all of them are in the field but there are probably a lot more than 65. When the field was in crops it had no natives but remnant natives from the edges of the field, woods, railroad tracks and pastures have had time to recolonize. The plants in the field are more common plants than the ones planted in the prairie. Common plants are more likely to support many insects than uncommon plants. The seeds in the prairie all came from Lenawee County but if the insects they supported are miles away they will never get here. Identifying and moving the insects that depend on them is not a good use of resources.

Recommendations: If we have a bare field that just finished being cropped then planting uncommon showy prairie plants is good because it will accelerate its return to natural status and give us more diversity. If it has been out of crops for years and has asters, goldenrods and wild bergamot spread across it, it should only be overseeded, not glyphosated and started from the beginning. Spot removal of invasives by spraying or hand pulling would be fine.

Further research: There are many opportunities for student research projects on this topic. The count area and time could be defined more precisely. Counts could be done at different times of the year. More species could be counted. Species other than butterflies could be counted. An analysis could be done on what insects are supported by the plant species present or what plants are utilized by the insect species present. The role of fire on insect populations could be examined. Why are there no grasshoppers in the prairie?

Naming the Creeks

Up until now we have been referencing our position in the Tom Turkey management area by referring to one of the many creeks than run through it. We have crossed enough creeks now that you would have to refer to the previous reports to try to figure out which one we are at now. To more precisely identify them we will try numbering them as follows:

Creek#1: This is the first creek north of the path below the field station to the river and was roughly where the UM students worked cleared honeysuckle to in January.

Creek#2: This is the creek below which we cleaned out the rest of the honeysuckle on the August Ford workday and some of our first weekday workdays. It is almost directly below our second base camp.

Creek#3: In the area south of this creek we had two base camps, saw the rattlesnake, temporarily lost an applicator, and Russell cut down the big Common Buckthorn.

Creek#4: This creek is below the base camp where our seats are ash tree trunks. The area south of it had the huge four-trunked honeysuckle, the green Gray Tree Frog, and the bee hive in the tree trunk we sat next to for our first break on September 2 (we moved the break area after we noticed the bees). We built one brush pile in this creek to slow down erosion and because it is easier to throw branches down into the creek than up onto a pile and the branches should rot faster if the bottom ones are sitting in water. With no salmon runs, I don't think there will be any ecological damage.

These creeks do not run all the way from the the field to the river but start somewhere below the slope and get wider and deeper as they approach the river.

Russell will decide whether to delineate these creeks on the maps and whether to devise more interesting names. I suppose he could name them after volunteers, i.e. Katie's Creek, Karla's Creek, Bob's Brook, Sam's Stream, Russell's Rivulet. If you have a better name for any of them, make a comment.

Lifetime Handles

The fiberglass handles on our Corona compound action loppers eventually weaken and break. In the past we had no way to repair them so the cutting jaws were thrown out and the handles were recycled as stakes to mark plantings.

Now we are experimenting with using aluminum pipe to replace the handles. The first step in the modification is to drill out or grind off the end of the rivet which holds the original handles on, then use a long punch to punch it out. The smaller pipe fits over the cutting jaw extension but since the pipe is hollow and cylindrical and the extension is flat, it does not fit tightly. This is resolved by shaping some half round wood molding to fit in the pipe on either side of the extension. Lacking precise forming equipment, the wood will either be slightly large, in which case it can be hammered in, or a little loose, in which case it can be dipped in water, then coated with Gorilla Glue just before insertion. Gorilla glue expands and dries to a dense foam which will fill the gaps and hold it in place. 6mm holes are drilled in the wood after it is inserted and bolts are then used to replace the rivets which formerly held the handles on.

The larger pipe fits over the black end of the handle. The OD of the handle is 1.50 inches and the ID of the pipe is 1.49 inches so some material on the end of the handle has to be ground off. It is a hard rubbery material. I used a drill press with a cylindrical, flat end 6mm diameter silicon carbide bur from McMaster-Carr. Drilling holes in the pipe exactly opposite each other and at exactly the right distance from the end to line up with the holes in the handle was beyond my technology. The bur was used to adjust the pipe holes in the proper direction for the bolt to work. The big pipe seems to be tight but if it later loosens up we will use Gorilla Glue for it also. Red electrical tape is wrapped around the handle to make it more visible and artistic.

The first modified lopper has one big pipe and one small pipe. The smaller pipe is lighter and cheaper but not as strong. If it turns out to be strong enough it will be used for future repairs. If it breaks we will use the larger pipe. Heavy duty fiberglass reinforced plastic pipe was investigated but it was heavier and more expensive than the large aluminum pipe.

The pipes were ordered from OnlineMetals.com, the same place we get the aluminum angle for upgrading the cutters. They have pipes of different diameters, wall thicknesses, and materials and they give the detailed dimensions. If you want a high tech lopper and need to get rid of a lot of money, you could order brass, stainless steel or titanium pipes.

Working in The Rain

We had a rainy day on Saturday but we cut buckthorn and honeysuckle and herbicided anyway.

One reason people don't herbicide in the rain is that they think the herbicide will get washed off. If you are using herbicide with surfactant, in accordance with the label, and apply it as soon as the cut is made, it will soak in almost immediately and once it has soaked in it cannot wash off. The photo shows stumps that we herbicided on Saturday morning when it was raining. On Saturday afternoon it rained hard. The photo was taken on Sunday morning. You can tell from the dye that the herbicide did not wash off.





The other concern about herbiciding in the rain is that the sponge will get soaked with rain and then you will be applying water instead of herbicide. This can be prevented by keeping a cover on the sponge until you are ready to use it. We use covers made from bottled water containers. If you don't drink bottled water yourself you can get empties from the side of the road, parking lots, or open trash containers.


A possible research project would be to quantify how much rain it would take to reduce herbicide effectiveness. It would be a two year project since it would take until the second year to see how many resprouts there were. The first year would consist of designing the experiment, applying herbicide in various amounts of rain and marking the stumps. In the second year the resprouts would be counted, a statistical analysis done, and conclusions and recommendations determined.


Cut stump treatment is different from foliar spray since the herbicide soaks into the wood very quickly and takes from an hour to up to 24 hours to fully soak into foliage.